In Chemena Kamali, Chloé has found the perfect bridge between its storied past and vibrant present. As the creative director, Kamali brings not only her deep technical expertise but also a fresh perspective to the iconic fashion house. Her work on the spring 2025 collection is a testament to her ability to weave historical narratives with contemporary design.

Chloé’s Rich History

Kamali’s inspiration for this collection came from the glamorous 1970s, specifically the Art Deco years under Karl Lagerfeld’s influence. “There are all these stories to explore that haven’t really been told yet that are part of our history,” Kamali shared. Her mood board for this collection was adorned with images from Lagerfeld’s 1970s apartment in Saint Germain, a black and gold Deco masterpiece. This apartment was not only a personal retreat but also a popular location for photo shoots by renowned photographers like Guy Bourdin, Helmut Newton, David Bailey, and Deborah Turbeville.

A particularly striking image from a 1975 Italian Vogue photograph by David Bailey showcased two girls lounging on a shell-shaped sofa, dressed in Chloé’s glam-bohemian collection. This snapshot from the past served as a foundation for Kamali’s vision, leading to opulent, decadent pieces featuring gold lamés, brocades, fil coupés, and jacquards. The collection includes billowing, floating volumes, off-the-shoulder dresses, balloon-sleeved blouses, and square-necked smocks in diaphanous coin-dot lamé and pleated metallic florals. Kamali described it as “more of an eveningwear interpretation of the last show.”

Balancing Opulence with Comfort

Incorporating a blend of faux fur coats, jackets, and pants, Kamali ensured the collection remained versatile. A notable feature across the tailoring is the neat, rounded ‘bump’ shoulder line on the jackets, highlighting Kamali’s attention to structure and fit. This detail also appears in the peacoats and blazers, adding a refined touch to the collection.

One of the standout items this season is the boxer-ballet shoe hybrid sneakers, designed to be soft, feminine, and comfortable. “I wanted something that was soft, feminine, comfortable,” Kamali laughed. “And they had to be real. All the women in the office have been test-wearing them.” These sneakers, collaged from a myriad of soft pastel colours in hi-top and low versions, are poised to become a Chloé favourite.

A Nod to Warhol and New York’s Eclectic Vibe

The second half of Kamali’s research took her to the world of Andy Warhol’s 1972 film, L’Amour, which was also shot in Lagerfeld’s Deco apartment. This period saw the convergence of New York’s Factory crew and Parisian nightlife, epitomized by legendary nights at Café de Flore. Kamali infused this eclectic, late-60s vibe into her collection, featuring high-waist jeans, body-hugging t-shirts, a tiny pink sweater, an Edie Sedgwick-inspired citrine baby doll dress, and a fringed leather Western jacket.

Accessories and Personal Style

Kamali tied all these themes together with a range of accessories, including tasseled metallic belts, strings of pendants, fringed bags, ‘Musketeer’ boots, and camera bags with jewelry chain straps. Each piece in the collection is designed to be versatile, allowing women to mix and match according to their style. “I want it to feel like someone’s wardrobe, their closet to pull from every day,” Kamali said. Her vision for Chloé is a thoroughly curated collection that feels personal and adaptable.

Kamali’s approach has quickly positioned her as a formidable creative force at Chloé. With only one runway show under her belt, she has already made a significant impact. Her ability to blend Chloé’s rich history with a modern sensibility is evident in the spring 2025 collection. As she prepares for her next collection, Kamali is clearly off to a flying start, revitalising Chloé with a soft, feminine, and cool 70s-inspired boho aesthetic that remains timeless and chic.