London Fashion Week AW25 reminded the world why the city still holds its crown as fashion’s disruptor. Despite a few major names sitting this season out, the schedule brimmed with energy, imagination, and moments that made you look twice. From poetic statements to powerful silhouettes, AW25 delivered depth, emotion and drama.

Designers We’re Watching

Simone Rocha returned to her roots with a collection inspired by schoolgirl memories in Dublin — think bike locks as necklace clasps, rugby shirts transformed into high-fashion statements, and twisted twin sets that blurred innocence with edge. It was a deeply personal and beautifully unhinged take on uniform rebellion, with delicate beading, rabbit stoles and signature pearls softening the sharpness.

Burberry closed the week with Daniel Lee’s boldest statement yet. Transforming Tate Britain into a draped country house fantasy, the collection paid homage to Britain’s eccentric upper classes, complete with velvet suiting, oversized shearling, and a knight in full armour on the front row. It was theatrical, luxurious and unmistakably British. With a focus on outerwear, tartan, and weekend-escape elegance, Burberry reasserted its heritage with a forward-facing lens.

Erdem offered a hauntingly beautiful collection inspired by a collaboration with artist Kaye Donachie. Presented in the British Museum, the collection channelled ephemerality and imagination, with sheer organza overlays, delicate paillettes, and flowing silhouettes that felt like walking portraits.

Roksanda staged her show against the sweeping skyline of London, with sculptural gowns, cut-out neoprene and tulle flourishes inspired by the late artist Phyllida Barlow. The sense of movement, fragility and transformation echoed through every detail.

S.S. Daley took a romantic, artistic approach to British heritage, playing with exaggerated collars, reworked outerwear, and references to Marianne Faithfull and the Scottish Colourists. It was one of his strongest collections to date.

Fashion East reminded us why it’s the place for future icons. From Louther’s illusionary textures to Nuba’s soft-yet-disruptive knitwear, each designer brought fresh vision. Olly Shinder’s fusion of queer clubwear and corporate fetish found new depth and direction, hinting at a major step forward.

AW25 Trends to Know

Uniform Unravelled: From Rocha’s twisted school references to Daley’s exaggerated tailoring, there was a strong play on institutional dress codes, reimagined with emotion and rebellion.

Bucolic Drama: Burberry’s tapestries, shearling, and velvet reimagined countryside life for the fashion set. Think weekend escapes with a cinematic twist.

Textural Romance: Tulle, neoprene, velvet, raffia — this season asked to be touched. Layered fabrics and unexpected clashes created sculptural, wearable art.

High Volume Outerwear: Trenches, puffers, and coats took centre stage, not just for function but as fashion’s ultimate punctuation mark.

Dreamlike Colour Palettes: Slate grey, oxblood, rust and moss dominated, while unexpected hits of butter yellow, scarlet and cyan added dimension.

The Style Machine Take

AW25 was a reminder that London still dares. In a post-maximalist world, this season brought emotional clarity, inventive silhouettes and a reinvigorated love for storytelling through fashion. It was moody, magical and deeply thoughtful — proof that fashion can be both personal and poetic.

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